Ninety-nine percent of the people who get cheated aren’t even aware of it. The smart cheater knows that. He knows percentages are in his favor. If he’s caught, he’ll return the money or settle the complaint immediately; therefore, no unsettled complaint on file. Let’s carry it a step further. Ninety-nine percent of the people who think they got cheated, really didn’t. There is a big difference between fraud and incompetency.

If you look it up in your dictionary you’ll find a ‘fraud’ is a person who willully cheats or deceives others.

‘Incompetent’: lacking in ability or skills. Totally different, right? …but not to most consumers. They’re aware of only one thing…they didn’t get what they paid for. I can assure you that very few garages are actually fraudulent, and willfully cheat or deceived. Incompetent? Well, I’ll admit there are some shops lacking in knowledge and skills.

A customer has an exhaust noise and calls a muffler shop and asks “How much to install a new muffler on my 1992 Ford?” The shop owner says $100. Customer: “When can you do it?” The owner says “At 2 this afternoon.” So at 2 o’clock the customer drives into the muffler shop. The customer says “Hi, I called about the muffler for the ’92 Ford.”

The owner says “Okay, we’ll get it right in.” The owner calls one of his mechanics: “Hey, Charlie, put in a new muffler on the ’92 Ford next.” Charlie gets the car in the air and the exhaust pipe has pulled out of the muffler (that’s where all the noise was coming from).

Charlie disconnects the other end and puts a new muffler on. There may not be a thing wrong with the old one, but you bought a new one. The shop owner didn’t sell you a new one, you bought a new one. You told him what you wanted and that was your mistake. Had that same customer driven into that shop and said, “I have an exhaust noise. Will you check it out and tell me how much it will cost to fix it?” A totally different transaction would have occurred. The owner would have said: “Hey, Charlie, get this ’92 on the hoist and see what needs to be done to correct that exhaust noise.” Charlie would have put it on the lift, checked it, gone to the shop owner and said, “The exhaust pipe is pulled out of the muffler. Owner says, “What will it take to fix it?” Charlie says “I can weld it or just put on a new clamp.” See the difference? If the owner had said, “you needed a new muffler” that would have been fraud. But that owner will sell you anything you want to buy, and he cannot be accused of cheating you. Have you ever gone into an appliance store and said, “I want to buy a new TV” or refrigerator and have the salesman say, “What’s wrong with your old one?” I never have.

Auto repair shops are no different. If you want to buy a transmission, they’ll sell you one.

If you want to buy a turn-up, they’ll sell you one. Put the “monkey” on the shop’s back. Let him do the diagnosing and if you don’t think he diagnosed it correctly, get a second opinion.

Click here to find an ATRA Member Shop in your area.

Download the PDF from D’s Transmission and Auto Tech LLC

Vehicles which are driven occasionally or for short distances are in many cases subjected to unusual wear and strain. For example, cars that are driven short distances, consistently never have the opportunity for the engine to warm up to the normal heat range. This can cause excessive engine wear.

Relatively, low mileage transmissions which are regularly used in city or stop and go conditions are subject to much higher wear than transmissions of the same mileage which are used under normal or primarily highway conditions. It is important to note that that it is not necessarily the mileage on a transmission which determines probable wear.

Rather, it is the number of times the transmission has been run through its startup and shift cycles that determines probable wear. Many other seemingly normal driving conditions can affect transmission life. Things like extreme climate conditions either cold or hot, mountainous, driving, motoring problems which are associated with snow or ice (and a host of others) can take their toll.

Under ‘normal’ driving conditions vehicle manufacturers recommend servicing your transmission as seldom as every 100,000 miles. As you can see from the limited examples above, very few motorist fit into the ideal or ‘normal’ driving condition category.

If you operate your vehicle under more extreme conditions, more frequent transmission servicing will be necessary to maximize transmission life. Servicing your transmission yearly seems to be an industry average. Under the most extreme conditions, even more often may be advisable and you may want to install an external transmission cooler for additional protection.

1986 Chevrolet, 45,000 miles, only driven to the grocery store by elderly lady.

If you are uncertain about the frequency of transmission service for your vehicle and driving conditions, your local ATRA Member will be pleased to discuss your specific situation and make appropriate recommendations.

Questions to ask about a Warranty

1. Is it written in simple and readily understood language?
2. Does it identify the person to whom the warranty is issued?
3. Does it clearly list the beginning date of coverage and the length of time and mileage allowed for the duration of the warranty?
4. Does it list the items being covered and also items not covered by the warranty?
5. Does it clearly explain what the consumer must do to receive repairs under the terms of the warranty?
6. Does it clearly explain where the consumer’s vehicle will be repaired? Will the repair be authorized only in the original repair facility or does it offer national coverage?

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First, even qualified automotive technicians who specialize in other areas of the car seldom have the ability to observe and then relate all the information necessary to come to an accurate conclusion related to transmissions. Then, there is the ever constant problem of conveying their observations in a manner that is meaningful to the transmission specialist. For example, will one’s definition of the terms slip, squeak, grind, squeal and bump be the same as the transmission professional who is trying to interpret those terms? Categorically—no!

Next, have all the complicated diagnostic procedures been performed which are necessary to provide a correct and cost efficient repair recommendation? The odds are poor at very best. With today’s sophisticated, electronically controlled transmissions, in many cases accurate diagnosis requires “high tech”, expensive diagnostic test equipment before even the professional can render a qualified opinion.

Further, when it has been determined which system(s) in the transmission have failed, then the extent of the internal damage must be determined before a meaningful price can be discussed. Short of performing these essential diagnostic procedures, persons who quote prices are either guessing, with virtually thousands of variables or stating a meaningless price which will have to be adjusted when all the diagnostic data is obtained.

We could compare this situation to a patient who calls his dentist, describing oral pain under a given set of circumstances. Is the pain caused by a gum infection, a cavity, the need for a root canal or is the only remedy complete tooth removal? The average consumer would be less than confident if the dentist were to recommend root canal or extraction with such incomplete information.

The same is true in transmission diagnosis. Any meaningful diagnosis can only be rendered after a complete inspection is performed.

Should you have questions of any nature, please feel free to contact your local ATRA Member. They will be pleased to assist you.

Download the PDF from D’s Transmission and Auto Tech LLC

Later model front wheel drive cars also incorporate the third major component. The differential or final drive, into the body of the transmission itself. These types of transmissions are known as transaxles.

Front wheel drive configuration is efficient in terms of fuel economy, handling and manufacturing costs, however, with the additional components housed within the transaxle unit, when it fails, it is generally more expensive to repair.

A transmission/transaxle properly rebuilt can deliver longevity equal to or in excess of your car’s original.

In many cases, transmission models are updated in their component design(s) by the manufacturer to improve performance over earlier units and/or overcome particular problem areas. A good transmission specialist will incorporate these updated designs and parts into his rebuild in order to make certain the consumer receives the longest transmission life possible and to reduce his warranty liability from premature failure.

For vehicles used in severe driving conditions, there are additional precautions which can be taken to insure against premature failure and make a vehicle better able to deliver the performance the owner wants in these unusual driving conditions.

Some severe driving conditions include heavy city (stop and go) driving, regular mountainous driving, pulling heavy loads, unusually warm climate, and trailer towing. Under these conditions it may be advisable to install a valve body kit or additional external transmission cooler.

If you subject your vehicle to these types of driving conditions, please feel free to contact your local ATRA Member. They will be pleased to make the appropriate recommendations to insure that your vehicle meets your motoring needs.

Download the PDF from D’s Transmission and Auto Tech LLC

We are all aware that late model cars use a computer to control the engine. Many cars use the same computer or another computer which shares the same information, to control the fuel injection, ignition and transmission. Automotive engineers did this in order to achieve more efficiency and better mileage. This means that your engine and transmission are connected together in more ways than just simply being bolted to one another.

Since the engine and transmission are controlled and work together, they are referred to as a ‘Powertrain”.

Consider that shudder you felt cruising down the highway. The computer is using sensors on the engine and transmission to detect such things as throttle position, vehicle speed, transmission input speed, stop light switch position, etc.

As you drive the car, you are constantly changing the demands on the powertrain (i.e. acceleration, cruising, passing, coasting and idling). The computer recognizes this by monitoring various sensors. To improve fuel economy, the computer will (under the right conditions) engage a clutch inside the torque converter.

NOTE: The torque converter is a device located between the engine and transmission. It is filled with hydraulic oil (automatic transmission fluid). The hydraulic oil coupled with the design of the torque converter allows the engine to run slowly at an idle (like being disconnected) with the vehicle stopped. At higher engine speed, torque is transferred through the hydraulic oil to the transmission.

Without special equipment and experience, no one can tell if a shudder is caused by something slipping inside the transmission, the torque converter, a weak spark, a dirty fuel injector or a loose electrical connection. Your Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association (ATRA) transmission specialist is a highly qualified professional and can best determine what, if anything your transmission needs.

Should you have questions of any nature, please feel free to contact your local ATRA Member. They will be pleased to assist you.

Download the PDF from D’s Transmission and Auto Tech LLC

The question is: Do these additives really work?

In most cases, unfortunately, the answer is no. In general, the additives that you’ll find on the shelves of a consumer-oriented parts store won’t really deliver on their extravagant promises. And the more exaggerated the claim, the less likely it is to make good.

That’s not to say all transmission additives are snake oil… far from it. There are some highly effective additives on the market that can significantly extend the life of your transmission. But chances are, you won’t find them on the shelves of your local auto parts store.

These effective additives are usually only available through your local transmission repair center. They make more realistic claims, such as:

• Neutralize acids that build up in the transmission fluid
• Provide additional resistance to the effects of heat
• Prevent or reverse fluid oxidation
• Prevent or reverse fluid sheer
• Modify friction characteristics to improve transmission performance
• Provide additional lubrication to moving parts
• Soften and remove varnish from internal components

While not as exciting as the claims made by the additives on the consumer shelf, these additives have the advantage of being able to deliver on their promises. Because of this, they can improve transmission operation and increase transmission life.

So don’t waste your money on additives that claim to offer a “new transmission in a can.” Check with your local ATRA member transmission shop for information on transmission additives that really work as advertised.

Download the PDF from D’s Transmission and Auto Tech LLC

1. Get Recommendations — Ask friends and family to recommend a shop where they were treated well.
2. Look for a Professional Appearance — A clean, organized shop indicates a professional attitude. And that usually carries over into all phases of their business… including their repairs and job pricing.
3. Avoid Phone Estimates — Today it’s virtually impossible to give an accurate estimate over the phone. Any shop that will give you a price before they see the car is probably low-balling you. Expect the price to go up considerably before the job is finished.
4. Ask for a Detailed, Written Estimate — After checking your car thoroughly, the repair center should have a fairly good idea of what’s wrong with your car. They should be able to provide a written estimate that specifies what’s wrong with your car, and what it’ll cost to repair it.
5. Look for Membership in Consumer Organizations — Most reputable shops are members of an organization or association that provides consumer arbitration in the event of a dispute, such as the Better Business Bureau and AAA. ATRA provides this service to its members.

Use this link to find an ATRA Member Shop in your area.

Download the PDF from D’s Transmission and Auto Tech LLC

ATF even provides the connection between the engine and transmission, through a hydraulic coupling called a torque converter. And, when squeezed between the clutches, ATF acts as a “glue,” providing additional friction and holding capacity to drive the vehicle.

So ATF is a very versatile fluid. That’s why maintaining that fluid can be so critical to transmission life.

A few years back, there were only two types of fluid on the market: Type A and Type F. Conventional wisdom said that Type F was for Fords and Type A was for everything else. Conventional wisdom wasn’t all that accurate even back then, and today it’s completely out the window. These days there are four main types of fluid on the market. And there are dozens of brands and styles to choose from.

So how do you know what your transmission uses? The easiest way to make sure you’re using the right type of ATF is to check the owner’s manual. It’ll tell you exactly which ATF the manufacturer recommended for your car. You may also find a recommendation on the dipstick. Either is a reasonable resource for determining the right type of fluid for your trans.

Fluid Types

Here’s a list of the different types of fluids, and the basic differences between them:

Type F—Yes, it’s still around, as a quick walk through at your local parts store will attest. The only think is, almost nothing uses it anymore. Type F was designed for Fords that used bronze clutches; the last trans made with bronze clutches was the Cruizematic, last used in the early ‘70s. Unless you’re talking about a classic car or an antique, you can be pretty sure your car doesn’t use Type F.

Dexron III/Mercon — This is one of the most common fluids on the market. Most GM and Ford units call for this type of ATF, as well as many imports. If your owners manual recommends any form of Dexron, or any Mercon — other than Mercon V — this is the fluid you want.

HFM-Style Fluids — HFM stands for Highly Friction Modified; it’s a fluid that provides different friction characteristics than Dexron III/Mercon. This fluid appears under a number of different names, including Chrysler’s ATF+ — also called 7670. Other manufacturers that use HFM ATF include:

• Honda/Acura
• Jeep/Eagle
• Hyundai
• Toyota/Lexus
• Saturn
• Sterling

Are these fluids interchangeable? They should be… logic dictates they are. But to be safe, always use the specific fluid the manufacturer calls for.

Synthetic Fluids — A number of manufacturers have begun to discontinue the use of organically-based fluids, in favor of synthetic fluids. Preliminary tests have shown that most synthetics have similar friction modification characteristics to Dexron III/Mercon, but with improved resistance to heat, cold, oxidation and sheer. In simple terms, synthetics last longer.

Synthetic oils are one reason why many manufacturers are also beginning to eliminate the transmission dipstick. Their feeling seems to be the ATF will last longer, so there’s no reason to let people interfere with the transmission and its operation. Will they work? Will synthetics really keep the transmission operating longer, without human intervention? Only time will tell.

CAUTION — Ford labels their synthetic fluid Mercon V, which can be a bit confusing. If the manual says Mercon V, it’s calling for the synthetic fluid; if the name is Mercon without the V, that’s the regular Dexron III/Mercon ATF.

Additives Alter Friction Characteristics

While there are many different types of ATF on the market, a few aftermarket chemical companies have come up with an idea to save repair shops and vehicle owners money. What they’ve done is develop additives that mix with standard Dexron III/Mercon, to alter the friction characteristics to match the other types of fluid.

One of the most common of these additives is the HFM additive. When added to Dexron III/Mercon, it alters the friction characteristics enough to allow you to use it in any transmission that requires HFM fluids.

This probably won’t affect you for adding a quart of ATF; chances are you won’t be able to get this additive anyway. They’re usually only available through professional sources. If you need to add a quart of ATF to your transmission, you’re probably better off using the factory recommended ATF.

But if you have your transmission serviced and the fluid replaced, the repair shop may use one of the HFM additives along with Dexron III/Mercon in your trans. That’s okay; these additives work just fine for altering the fluid’s friction characteristics.

However, if your transmission is still within its factory warranty, check with the dealer or a factory representative before allowing anything in your transmission besides the factory recommended ATF. Other additives or oils could affect your warranty.

Use this link to find an ATRA Member Shop in your area.

Download the PDF from D’s Transmission and Auto Tech LLC

New transmission fluid is usually transparent, and relatively odorless. A few years ago, virtually every transmission fluid was red; technicians would aptly describe a transmission with exceptionally clean fluid as being “cherry.”

Today, many manufacturers have begun to stray from the traditional red color. Transmission fluids may be green, yellow, some may even have a bluish tint. But in virtually every case, clean fluid will look clean, and smell clean. So checking the fluid’s color and giving it a little sniff is a great way to determine whether your transmission is in good shape, or in need of service.

Here are the basic conditions you should be looking for:

CLEAN, CLEAR FLUID, WITH VIRTUALLY NO ODOR — the fluid’s like new. Chances are the transmission’s working fine. Use the vehicle mileage or time since it was last serviced to determine whether you should have the transmission serviced.

SLIGHT BROWNISH TINT, WITH A LIGHTLY BURNT ODOR — the fluid’s beginning to burn, and is probably due for a service. If you didn’t have the fluid exchanged completely the last time you had the transmission serviced, you may just be looking at the old oil that was left in the transmission. As long as the transmission seems to be working okay, consider a complete fluid exchange service in the not-too-distant future.

BROWN COLOR, WITH A DISTINCTLY BURNT OR VARNISHED ODOR — the fluid’s burnt, and you may already be experiencing transmission operating problems. If the trans seems to be operating okay, you might still get away with a complete fluid exchange service and filter replacement. But there’s little doubt that the transmission is beginning to wear, so the best you can expect from a service is to buy you some time. Eventually you’ll be facing a transmission job.

BLACK COLOR, WITH A STENCH THAT WILL MAKE YOUR TOES CURL — the fluid’s severely burnt, and the transmission probably is, too. You’re probably experiencing a serious transmission operating failure. A service at this point will usually be a complete waste of money; the trans is going to need a rebuild. And there’s the possibility of related problems, such as a clogged trans cooler or a cooling system problem. Make sure you have these systems checked at the same time, to avoid a second transmission failure.

Of course, fluid condition isn’t the only thing technicians check when examining a transmission’s condition. They also look at operating condition, computer system codes, and any loose material in the pan, to name just a few. Oil condition is just one of a series of clues they use to diagnose transmission condition. If you’re unsure of whether your transmission fluid indicates a problem, stop by your local ATRA member center: They’ll be happy to check your transmission fluid, and suggest an appropriate course of action.

Download the PDF from D’s Transmission and Auto Tech LLC